What You Need to Know:
The responsibility of the expenses for a model to start their business is often misunderstood to new models starting in the industry. It is often expected that agencies will front all costs of developing new models/talent to start their career. Modeling agencies often hear new models say "If they really want me I won't have to pay for anything." Unfortunately, the industry doesn't front the cost like agencies did in the 1980's.

It is TRUE, models do not EVER need to pay to be represented. Agencies make money off of commissions from the work a model performs for clients. However, that is different from investing in your business start-up costs that the agency needs to market and promote you. This is typical of ANYONE starting a business. A model is an entrepreneur and must treat their journey as a BUSINESS. To be a successful, professional model it is essential to possess the tools of the trade including marketable photographs, comp cards, agency portfolio, development, etc...It's a competitive industry and models MUST be prepared.

As a model you are a self-employed, independent contractor. You are considered a sole proprietor in your own small business; you are not an employee of the agency. In addition to basic start-up costs, professional models, including those represented by top agencies such as Ford Models, Elite, Next, Wilhelmina are required to cover all of their own promotional expenses such as test shoots, composite cards, agency books, headsheets, websites, etc. Professional models understand that this is simply the cost of doing business and it is standard in the industry for the model to cover these promotional expenses.

Don't make the mistake of expecting an agent to pay for your expenses (also known as advances). Agents consider this extremely rude, presumptuous and unprofessional and it is a sure fire way to make the agent show you the door. If an agent is willing to help you financially they will offer it. Keep in mind this is extremely rare and is generally offered only by large agencies in markets such as New York, LA, Paris or Milan and they will deduct what you owe them the moment you book a job.

Agencies in smaller markets simply do not have the resources to finance new models. However, the agencies in smaller markets are very important to a new model's career. Most models do not start at the top in big New York or Paris agencies; rather they learn the business, develop their look and build their books in the smaller market agencies. If you have the opportunity to work with an agency in a smaller market don't pass it up, they can be a valuable asset to your career. And please, please don't expect modeling agencies to finance your career. Remember that agents are just that - they are AGENTS. They are not bankers or magicians.

Typical Start-Up Expenses
Model/Talent Coaching/Development
Test shoots
Website, Comp Cards, Portfolios
Hair/Make-up Artist & Wardrobe Stylist
Prints